A lean month, often wild and windy, March should herald the approach of spring with its promise of good things to come.
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March, so the saying goes, comes in like a lion and goes out like a lamb. The weather may not always bear this out, but the vegetable markets usually do: this is the in-between month, too late for many of winter’s glorious root vegetables and brassicas, too early for the fresh, cheering arrivals of spring. It’s often a case of making do if you’re a stickler for home-grown produce, or of relying on imported produce. There may still be good root vegetables around, though you should check carefully for signs of softness that can indicate a spongy, watery interior; parsnips in particular may be good. Potatoes, of course, should be fine whether from the UK or abroad; new potatoes from Cyprus are especially good choices now.
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Curly kale, a member of the cabbage family, is a good choice among greens, as are broccoli imports from Spain. At the beginning of the month, spinach is likely to come from overseas, but UK crops will start appearing as March heads towards April. In the absence of a wide vegetable choice, don’t forget the humble onion – tasty small new crops should be coming into the market, and enliven just about any dish. Bake or braise them on their own, or use them in dishes like Caramelised Onion and Feta Tart or Onion Soup. Finally, take advantage of the wonderful leek, which is one of the months few vegetable stars.
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Leeks are a member of the allium family, which also includes onions and garlic, but they have far less smelly qualities that may cause a tricky situation for people who worry about what their breath smells like after eating. Most leeks sold in March are grown in the UK, though you might find some imports from France, especially the ‘baby’ leeks, which are hardly worth the price they command. As the home-grown leeks get to the end of their season, which they do in March, they can be so large that the core becomes tough and woody, making them inedible. Those that still stand up to cooking will probably have an unusually strong flavour. Look out for small to medium specimens without too much of the green tops as these are best in March. The green tops are not suitable for eating, but make good ingredients for soups, stews and stocks.
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Leeks have a reputation for being difficult to clean. Some recipes may suggest removing the green tops and cutting a slit down the centre of the leek before running water into the separate layers, but most leeks come into the market today free of grit in the edible white sections and can be cleaned just by cutting off the green part. Small leeks can be successfully grilled or stir-fried, but generally speaking they are better cooked in a moist environment – steaming, poaching, braising or cooking in a casserole or stew – as well as using them in stocks and soups.
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For fruit, there’s essentially nothing but imports to rely on. Oranges from Morocco remain a good buy as do exotic travellers from the southern hemisphere such as mangoes, passion fruit, and pawpaw or papaya. Grapes are another good bet, especially the green South African varieties, which are available in March. And don’t forget about the end of the season’s forced rhubarb.
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